June Mariutto's chicken risotto

When it's cold, rainy and dreary, I think of those comfort foods I've loved to make over the years.  Growing up in Kentucky, that would have typically been chicken and dumplings, potato soup or something equally warm. Early in our marriage, it might have been chili or mac and cheese. However, in 1985 while pregnant with Dana, I was fortunate to visit a wonderful woman who taught me to make what might be the ultimate Italian comfort food: chicken risotto.

Larry and I had traveled to South Florida for a Gator baseball game with Miami and were visiting our friend Don Mariutto and his family.  As his last name indicates, Don and his family were true Italians. They had many family members still living in Italy, had a business distributing beautiful Italian tile in the United States, and he along with his brother and parents often traveled to Italy.

Don's mom, June, was a lovely woman and I was fortunate that the day we visited, she was making chicken risotto.  She patiently walked me through the process, explaining along the way that risotto makes its own schedule - that it has to be constantly watched and stirred - and that it, not me, would decide when it was done.

A lot of people are afraid of making risottos - the main reasons being they have to be constantly watched (and stirred as I mentioned above) and the ingredients' measurements and the cooking schedule aren't an exact science.  Below, in my words, is how June taught me to make her chicken risotto that cool spring day. Sadly, she died several years ago - but when winter comes and I need something warm and soothing, June's chicken risotto is the first thing that comes to mind.

Ingredients

1/4 pound unsalted butter
3 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon Italian seasoning
5-7 cups of chicken broth (here is where the measurements aren't exact)
2 teaspoons tomato paste (add to chicken broth)
salt and pepper (no salt if chicken broth has salt)
1 pound chicken breast, cut into small pieces (I cut mine about the diameter of a nickel)
2 cups Arborio rice
1 cup grated Parmigiana Reggiano

In a medium saucepan heat chicken broth and tomato paste to a simmer and keep warm on the stove. Melt butter and olive oil in a heavy saucepan on medium-low heat and saute onion for 10 minutes or until soft (I use a Le Creuset porcelain-enamel dutch oven). Add chicken, cinnamon and Italian seasoning and cook for 5-6 minutes, stirring constantly. Add rice and 1/4 cup hot chicken broth. Continue stirring constantly until the broth is absorbed.  When it appears most of the broth has been absorbed, add one cup of broth and continue to stir constantly. Continue adding the broth, one cup at a time, after each cup is absorbed.

It typically takes about 20-30 minutes of adding the broth one cup at a time and you have to continue to stir constantly (find a friend or partner to help when you arm gets tired). At some point, the rice will get tender and the dish will become creamy.  The only way to determine when it's done is to keep tasting.  You'll find that magical point where the rice becomes creamy - and loses that al dente taste you'll find in earlier bites.

Once the rice is tender and the dish becomes creamy, add the Parmiagiana Reggiano to taste.  Some like a little more cheese - you can also grate some extra on top of each individual serving.  If the risotto gets a little gummy, just add a little more broth. Don't be afraid, it's hard to screw up!

The key to making risotto is to not get in a hurry - you have to be patient, constantly stirring and tasting. At the end you'll have a bowl of pure comfort.  Warning = it is incredibly rich so it helps to serve with a salad and a glass of chardonnay.  Leftovers heat up well - just gently reheat on the stove top and add a little broth and a little more cheese to have a creamy consistency.